Wednesday, February 22, 2012

New York Fashion Week Hangover: Part Two

During the past 10 years, a wave of emerging designers arrived on the New York fashion scene to challenge the Calvins, Donnas and Michaels of the time. Their unconventional aesthetics, along with their refusal to accept rules, reconstructed the identity of the American fashion industry. Some sky-rocketed to the top, some did not. Among them are now-stables of American Vogue such as Jack and Lazaro of Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang and Olivier Theyskens of Theory.

Anyone who had closely follow the collections of Proenza Schouler, or just fashion in general, would know that spring 2012 is a huge downer flop. Egh. Backless dresses, patterned blouses, leather opera gloves... what? Well, worry not — Jack and Lazaro are back with their Cali, surfer girls-vibe they had first started with. With simple silhouettes, Eastern-inspired prints and leather trousers that would make you cry, this is what one would called "Asian in New York City" as the brilliant minds at pointed out.

I'm not on the Theyskens' Theory any sooner, but you have to admit that its fall 2012 collection is a perfect portray of downtown sophistication. Namely, the slim blazers, slouchy bottoms and loose knits tucked into midcalf-boots are nothing short of spectacular. Maybe not exactly "spectacular" but you get the point. Although the collections of Theyskens' Theory feel very commercial, I like how Theyskens balances tomboyish with feminine without overdoing either.

I love minimalism, so it's no surprise I love the collections of Calvin Klein and Reed Krakoff. For this season, Krakoff balances his simple collection with structural silhouettes and an emphasize on layering. Pantsuits and A-line coats were paired with simple tops and straight pants, pushing the sense of minimalism even further with a hint of sporty. Overall, I think it's really the simple colour palette — black, cream and bright cherry red — that makes this collection urban and conventional.

"The Calvin Klein company sure seems to be trying. Some of the models wore their hair in severely shorn inky black bobs, kind of a tribute to their honored guest. The crew had spent two days painting every square inch of the show space black, perhaps to make her feel more at home. And Francisco Costa, the designer, personally showed Ms. Mara the collection backstage." — "The Girl With the Front Row Seat," On The Runway

For Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa was inspired by post-modernism and the punk art scene in the 20th Century. And Lisbeth Salander of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, of course. Before I go off to how beautiful my future wife Rooney Mara looks I just really think you should read TGWTDT and watch the movie. That's all. Anyway Rooney, who wore a sleeveless shift dress, sat next to Emma Stone and they really should become best friends already. They are both flawless human beings! They are both talented actresses! They have great style! Alex(@FuckYeahTGWTDT) and I got our fingers crossed for good measure.

Besides Rooney's surprise appearance at the front row, the clothes make me cry out tears of joy because of how subversive they are. Simple dresses that nib at the waist comes in various alternations — with a silver belt, made with leather or with chiffon panel insert. The collection has a very depressing simple palette of black, vanilla, and later coral pinks and orange. Along with the razor-short black bobs, the collection is very Rooney/Lisbeth in my opinion. Nothing really Oscars-worthy, though. Long-time readers would know that I'm praying that she'll wear something from Givenchy Couture, spring 2012. She better be.

Note: You probably expect Alexander Wang to be on the list, but guess what? The whole thing is so ugly! Bye!

photo source: vogue


  1. Awesome coverage, love your blog!

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  2. In terms of fashion, I'm not a huge fan of minimalism, I actually don't love minimalism in design... in general. I mean, I can appreciate it, but I don't prefer it. I guess I'm a maximalist xD. Good reviews either way though.

    1. I just really like how designers usually balance minimalism with precise tailoring and fabrics. Which is ironic considering the fact that I'm also a maximalist like you...

  3. Proenza Schouler was so on point this season. Sick blog, btw. Really glad I found you!


    1. Comparing to the spring 2012 collection, I agree with you. Thanks ~